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Wine TwinsCurated by Nicolas

Journal

Longer notes on the wines I keep coming back to, the regions worth knowing, and the questions I get asked most.

Two Puchang Vineyard bottles on a green table in front of a painting, a white Rkatsiteli with a blue label and a red Saperavi with a sand-coloured label, both with neck labels reading Turpan

Chinese Wine, Part One: Puchang in Turpan

I opened a Rkatsiteli 2019 and a Saperavi 2016 from Puchang Vineyard in Xinjiang, bought in Hong Kong before COVID, to see whether two bottles picked almost at random could hold their ground.

Three bottles side by side: Dalrymple Pipers River Chardonnay 2022, Dalrymple Pipers River Pinot Noir 2024 and Freycinet Riesling 2025

Picking Wines for a Subscription Box

Choosing wines for a friend's subscription box at a trade tasting of new releases, and the bottles I would buy for myself.

Six Robert Weil Riesling bottles lined up on a wooden counter at Rathdowne Cellars, pale blue labels running from the 2024 Rheingau to the Kiedrich Gräfenberg, with a fan of Taste with Robert Weil booklets in front

Beautiful and Expensive: Robert Weil at Rathdowne Cellars

I tasted six dry Rieslings from Robert Weil at a free Saturday tasting at Rathdowne Cellars, including a young Gräfenberg GG beside its older self, and then asked whether the shop, the market or the producer sets the price.

The Festa della Toscana offer sheet from Prince Wine Store, held beside an empty tasting glass

Chianti Against Brunello at the Festa della Toscana

Thirty-two Tuscan wines at Prince Wine Store, where Montalcino won on merit and the Riserva bottles did not.

Ten Kumeu River bottles standing in a lit recess set into a wall clad entirely in the printed end panels of wine crates

Reading the Weather at Kumeu River

Ten wines from New Zealand's most celebrated Chardonnay producer, and what a defoliated vineyard and a forty per cent yield loss actually taste like.

Rows of dormant winter vines at Sandhurst Ridge running towards the red-roofed winery buildings, with a dirt track and an olive grove along the right-hand side

Still a Dark Horse at Sandhurst Ridge

A Bendigo winery selling nine-year-old Shiraz for thirty dollars, which changed hands last year and appears not to have changed at all.

Five Whistling Eagle bottles lined up on a table before the tasting, from the 2021 Eagles Blood Shiraz through to the 2024 GSM

A Second Look at Whistling Eagle

A $10 Wednesday tasting in a Bendigo bank building, five wines from a Heathcote family winery, and the Sangiovese I scored too low two years ago.

The main room at Prince Wine Store during the tasting, rows of bottles in the foreground and a crowd gathered at the far end beneath a chandelier made of wine glasses

Not the Usual Suspects at Prince Wine Store

A walk-around tasting of lesser known grapes at Prince Wine Store, and why the cheaper bottles told the better story.

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